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cassin route grandes jorasses

cassin route grandes jorasses

From Grandes Jorasses to Denali, places where the challenges are for real, Riccardo Cassin established some of today’s most iconic alpine routes with tools he made by himself. However, everything needs to be right: little details, such as whether I should climb two meters more to the right or to the left, sound ridiculous when you’re talking about a 1,200 meter face, but in the end, these details make the difference. He confirmed his extraordinary mountaineering skills 50 years later by climbing this route again at the age of 78. He climbed the vertiginously steep north face to the Walker Spur (Cassin-Route) three times with different partners - the last time, two weeks before the actual record attempt. The Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m; 13,806 ft) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, on the boundary between Haute-Savoie in France and Aosta Valley in Italy..

He conquered the north face with a height of over 1200m on the Cassin route in a sensational 2 hours and 4 minutes and was overwhelmed:"I am feeling unbelievably happy and very proud of my achievement. This route is known today as the Cassin Route or the Via Cassin. Then, on July 27, 2018, it all finally came together: Dani caught a good weather window and good conditions to set a new record. At the end of July, the 34-year old climbed the Walker Spur (4,208 meters) in the Mont Blanc massif on the Cassin route in 2 hours and 4 minutes. Swiss climber Dani Arnold has set a new speed record up the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Alps in a near sub-two-hour climb. CASSIN is more than a story. The 34-year-old climbed the Walker Spur via the Cassin Route in only two hours and four minutes by himself. ... otherwise there is a risk of falling rocks. CASSIN is a legend with two great protagonists: the mountain and the man. For the third summer in a row, Dani has been focusing on the Grand Jorasses north face project. For a successful free solo climb, the rock has to be free from ice, but if it is too dry, there is a risk of rockfalls.
The north face of the Grandes Jorasses. He now holds speed records on two out of the three legendary north faces in the Alps.

Amazing ambiance, views and a feeling of remoteness which …

Located on the French side of the mountain, the north face is one of the three On the Italian side of the mountain, the south face can be accessed from the Boccalatte cabin, above the hamlet of Planpincieux in the Italian From the Col des Hirondelles, the summit ridge connects Pt. Il y a des rêves qu'il faut croquer , il y a des rêves qu'il faut répéter , il y des rêves qu'il faut entretenir . The most demanding section was the steep and technically complex Rébuffat corner, since this part was very wet due to meltwater.” With the speed record on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses and the fastest time on the north face of the Matterhorn, Dani now holds records on two out of the three great north faces in the Alps. Despite the fact that this was quite a struggle for me – as patience certainly isn’t my strongest skill. Mammut Pro Team Athlete Dani Arnold has set a new record time on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.

Grandes Jorasses Nordwand mit Walkerpfeiler, rot = die Routenführung des Walkerpfeilers Anm: Die Aufnahme stammt vom 14. Walker to the other summit points and then descends to the Col des Grandes Jorasses where a bivouac shelter is located - the Bivouac E Canzio hut. However, to claim the speed ascent, he needed to wait until the weather and conditions on the granite ridge between Haute-Savoie in France and the Aosta Valley in Italy were just right - a combination that occurs only a few days a year. Eperon Walker - Voie Cassin - Grande Jorasses - le topo revisité !!! L'ascension de la Pointe Walker (4 208 mètres) a été réalisée en 2h04, via la voie Cassin. He now holds speed records on two out of the three legendary north faces in the Alps.

In 2016 and 2017, weather conditions made any attempt impossible.

Looking back, waiting such a long time for the right moment really paid off. “Around 80 percent of the Cassin route on the Walker Spur consists of rock, which is more difficult terrain than ice for a speed ascent. Colton Macintyre, Grandes Jorasses.

The Colton Macintyre is a modern classic straight up the guts of the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.

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cassin route grandes jorasses