The resort had even groomed the track from Grindelwald that morning expecting the closures would not to keep people off the slopes. With the Eigergletscher Guesthouse closed due to construction, Hotel Bahnhof closed due to health precautions, and the Hotel Bellevue des Alpes open but too ritzy, we planned to discreetly bivouac near Eigergletscher. Ashamedly, we spent more time on the face than the first ascent in 1938 and the second ascent in 1947.

The Stollenloch (“Door 38”) is a small, purely utilitarian window which was used to jettison debris from the early railroad construction over a century ago and was never a tourist observation window.

Tout com­mence à Grindelwald, de là on peut obser­ver l’a­rête qui se découpe sur la gauche de la face nord. We’d planned to at least visit in order to understand the approach, logistics and start to observe the conditions on the mountain.The lack of train meant an extra 6 miles and 4500ft gain of approach to the mountain…a mere “sit-start”. A climb of the Eiger usually begins with an expensive 1hr train ride from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg, then a change of trains for another 10min ride up to Eigergletscher. The Difficult Crack is still truly difficult (and also hard to find)! You would have thought that the Third Reich could have at least put up Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer up for a few nights!Many climbers discreetly bivy near the foot of the Eiger within the ski resort, or on the floor of the restaurant at the Eigergletscher complex (the uppermost hub of the Jungfrau ski resort). We knew the summit was flat enough for a bivy site, but we found a luxuriously wide flat spot earlier, at this juncture with the Mittellegi Ridge. Many of the cruxes on this route are no-shit overhangs on brittle rock, downsloping ledges, and poor protection (if any at all).With a pre-dawn start from our comfortable beds at the foot of the Eiger, we stepped out into a frozen darkness. Il précède la fissure difficile et la traversée Hinterstoisser.je pense que ju a raison,pour la voie historique (voie Heckmair)Merci à tous pour vos réponses, je reçois le Hiebeler bientôt je ferai un "double check" comme qui dirait.Il y a un ressaut de glace dans la longueur de la cascade également il me semble..."Le ressaut de glace" ? A fall would mean a giant pendulum into space, dangling thousands of feet above the concave of the face below.

Discussions Alpinisme et Cascade de glace. The chimney above looked so well protected with fixed ropes and pitons everywhere, but every topo told us to go left around the corner instead. But not all. Comment s'appelle ce pilier ? The East Ridge from the summit to the Ostegg (2,709 m) is the longest on Eiger, it is named Mittellegi. There are large lockers at the Kleine Scheidegg train station to store ski boots (5 Swiss francs), ski lockers (2 Swiss francs per pair of skis), and a high-powered viewing telescope at the Hotel Bellevue des Alpes to look at conditions on the face (1 Swiss franc). First, traverse across easy snow slopes towards the First Pillar, zig-zagging across snowed-over limestone ledges up to the Shattered Pillar, and finally the ‘Difficult Crack’, the crux-y start of the actual climbing.Sadly, we never even saw the Stollenloch. Still, it’s worth noting that Kurz and Hinterstoisser biked from Berchtesgaden, Germany, nearly 400miles away…perhaps the true sit-start for the Eigerwand! De mémoire y'a Stefan Glowacz dedans.

Connaissais-vous les …

Among the reasons I climb, isolation is not one of them. Ceci étant dit, si vous avez l'occasion de regarder les documentaires de la BBC sur l'alpinisme, ils sont souvent hyper bien faits. I do not remeber the name but you should find it in the net.I dont want to be rude, but if you need to ask questions like this, you shouldnt even try.So, did you climb the 1938 route? This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. One upstream (the “Eigerwand Station”) on the looker’s left side of the face, and one downstream (the “Stollenloch”) on the right side. Posté en tant qu'invité par Gigio: Bonjour , J'ai une question - débat en demandant à ceux qui ont gravi l'Eiger North Face légendaire Heckmair . But alas, we found no steps and instead had to make our path and kick our own steps (later deeming that the blogpost was not clearly dated and was actually from earlier in January).

The White Spider is an obvious concave weakness in the wall spotted from the valley floor which was more black-and-blue this time of year than “white”.

Nowadays, with modern ice climbing technique, climbers are truly blessed if they find it was we did: in WI3 conditions, heavily featured, and easily accepting “stubby” ice screws.The Second Icefield is a long, snowy traverse on low-angled ground to get to mixed corners (Bügeleisen, or ‘Flatiron’ buttress) and finally to the wall’s first and only decent bivouac: the ‘Death Bivouac’ (aka ‘Karl-Max Bivouac’ where Mehringer and Sedlmeyer froze to death in 1935). I appreciate the sights and sounds of civilization from a climb which provides significant psychological aid. Et puis ce rapport presque mystique à la nature et à l'espace qui traverse toute l'œuvre d'Herzog, décliné en multiples variations, des jungles d'Agguire et de Fitzcaraldo aux brumes romantiques de Nosferatu ou plus récemment dans les glaces polaires de son fascinant docu philosophique "Encounters at the end of the world"... mouais, mais franchement pour un amateur de montagne, le film est vraiment caricatural voire irregardable.

Bonjour, J'ai fait le Monch il y a 2 ans et c'était cher au final …

Alpinisme et Cascade. Surprisingly, our ledge was just wide enough to sleep side-by-side… a welcome and unexpected luxury. The limestone is so compact in this chimney that protection does not exist for about 20ft.

Although dangers persist on the legendary peak in the Swiss Alps, advances in equipment have turned this former graveyard of the ambitious into a playground for professionals. BMC - Hard new free route on the Eiger; La Paciencia Route - the hardest of the North Face routes. On sort …

We have to start somewhere, and it’s not Bern! system 2008-02-27 12:00:03 UTC #1. If yes, did you find a good guidebook? but also as an homage to the 1936 tragedy when the entire team perished while trying to retreat down the face but were unable to reverse the traverse (likely due to fresh verglas plastered to the slabs).

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