0000108381 00000 n 0000046173 00000 n Glacial recession has made it difficult to negotiate the Mont Blanc Glacier to the Miage Glacier so our chosen escape route was to skin to the shoulder above the Quintino Sella hut and then ski the west-facing couloir down to the Dome Glacier. Falling Mont Maudit and Kuffner Ridge is an ascent that every passionate mountaineer must try, at least once. 0000034394 00000 n 0000015130 00000 n "An unbreakable toy is good for breaking other toys." This old game of Russian Roulette beneath seracs tightened the tension across my chest again. The weather had not broken all day with heavy cloud coming and going, and I slid forward onto the arête only to be enveloped in thick fog. Cold cold ning eat. We enjoyed its warm glow, then turned in early to get some sleep before what we knew would be a very long day.On the summit it was a relief to drop down the Italian side a few metres and get out of that north wind. 0000007984 00000 n 0000012277 00000 n Mont Maudit north face from the Col Maudit (m. 4.035). 0000034487 00000 n 0000023103 00000 n Wilfried and I climbed Mont Maudit via the normal route from Refuge Cosmiques. I took the last lift up that evening  to the Aiguille du Midi in order to join the others at the Cosmiques refuge, my pack laden with five litres of water. The Southeast-side is totally different from … We encountered perfect weather and great conditions even though it was already end of August, pretty late in the season for a fairly dry summer.On Saturday we drove from Zurich to Chamonix, took the Aiguille du Midi gondola up and hiked the short hike to the Refuge Cosmiques which took us perhaps half an hour..On Sunday morning we got up at 2:45am for breakfast that we had scheduled for 3am. 0000082808 00000 n

0000012867 00000 n For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. You reach the Col Maudit, where the ridge starts, easily with a traverse from the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul via little steep firn hangs to the Southwest. It felt more like winter than spring. It would be easy to head off on the wrong line here and we knew there was only one skiable line in condition. After being in the world of snow, ice and rock all day long, the lush green

830 0 obj <> endobj xref 830 77 0000000016 00000 n 0000067434 00000 n After climbing the Col du Mont Maudit in boot deep snow we kept walking as the wind had scoured the slopes slopes to Mont Blanc.We had by now recovered from the cold and took some time to strip off shells and down jackets in preparation for the coming descent.

We took our time and were on our way by 4:15am.We passed the Col du Midi and ascended the Glacier des Bossons to the Tacul shoulder. Col du Midi Dôme du Goûter˚ 1 6 4 7 5 2 3 A ... mont Maudit 4465 m dôme du Goûter 4304 m refuge du Goûter 3835 m aiguilles de Bionnassay 4052 m y identifying . 0000108880 00000 n

I needed to ski swiftly to limit the exposure time, but serac debris slowed us all right down.
Its distinct and lofty spire, and the great number of routes to get there, prove that it is a major objective in its own right. 0000008701 00000 n

0000109005 00000 n This was no problem during the early morning hours when the snow was frozen solid but it was a bit more of a challenge during the descend later in the day with softer snow.

%PDF-1.4 %���� 0000108420 00000 n Below us the west face fell out of sight in vast, featureless snow slopes. The normal ascent from the Col du Mont Maudit is the NW-ridge which is 250 m long. 0000018830 00000 n We each went through our final preparations in silence, eating and drinking as much as possible before making our way out into the frozen, predawn air. Difficulty: PD According to a sign I saw posted on Aiguille du Midi, persons can set up tents pretty much any place they choose on the mountain, free of charge, provided the tents are up after sunset and down after sunrise.
The first ascent of Mont Maudit was by a British party comprising Henry Seymour King and the lawyer/diplomat William Edward Davidson with guides Johann Jaun and Johann von Bergen on 12 September 1878. 0000028609 00000 n 0000058309 00000 n

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